Give you a white T-shirt, a box of paint. Can you design a fashion within 20 minutes?
You may not, but for professional fashion designers, this is just a piece of cake. As the nation's first professionally-crafted large-scale professional skills talent show, the "Techniques of the World" broadcast on Guangdong Satellite TV on the evening of September 14 will show you the charm of fashion designers: threading the needle, cutting the scissors After fierce competition, 6 players stood out and showed their unique skills.
Each age has its own fashion designer. They belong to different ages, but they are all nitpicking and can't bear an ugly button in their eyes.
The old tailor: When no S, M, L code Jiao Yunqing had just entered the line of life, he did not have his own shop. In the 80s of the last century, clothes were made at home. Throughout the entire week, Jiao Yunqing will stay in someone’s house, measuring the size and sewing clothes for each family member. “At that time almost every household had a sewing machine. If it did not, then they would borrow one from a neighbor’s house.†In order to catch up, he usually sleeps on the floor overnight.
He missed the era, "The position of the tailor is quite high." After all, everyone is eager to make new clothes for themselves. Jiao Yunqing quoted Zhou Libo's Qingkou. "The master came to the tailor and bought 10 fritters, which can be beautiful."
But now, fewer and fewer young people are willing to take his class. Jiao Yunqing has been in business for 26 years and has opened his own shop in Shanghai, basically doing business with old customers. There is a female guest who customizes several cheongsams every month. “Shanghai people love beauty, and she hopes to wear a different cheongsam dress every time she visits.â€
There is no S, M, or L code in Master Jiao's life. As he said, every day is faced with living people who have different body sizes and different requirements. Some people have more shoulders and others have longer waists. There can be no fixed size for each piece of clothing. All measurements, lengths, waist lengths, chest heights must be carefully measured. Sometimes, if you make a small mistake, you have to make several changes.
For Master Jiao, fabrics are also in demand. "If you can find the material I want from dozens of shops, that is very lucky." Most of the time, he may have gone thousands of shops, did not find the special fabric required.
Slow work is something he often talks about. “If I do 4 cheongsams a day, what would the horror look like?†When I was an apprentice, I had endless lists every day, but he would never Compress the production time of each piece of clothing, so that only the rest time can be compressed. It is common to catch up.
Like many masters, he still likes Chinese traditional things. Even if the cheongsam is a little innovative, he just chooses to make the neckline bigger and bloom like a petal. "Now young people do have their own ideas and visions for design. After all, not every year like Zhang Ailing." Master Jiao is also constantly trying to integrate Western design elements, but the main line will not change, but still have to focus on traditional culture. Promotions, such as incorporating allusions into clothing.
“In the past, they had been making clothes according to the requirements of the guests. After that, they hoped to do it for themselves.†Jiao Yunqing now has his own fashion dream. He hopes that one day, he will dress according to his own ideas and be loved by the guests.
The new generation: the extraordinary creativity, the market does not accept the age of seven years, Cheng Yu is particularly envious of a young partner, because of the chest of his clothes, embroidered an exquisite Beijing Tiananmen. After returning home, he said to his mother that he also wanted one. Who knows, my mother told him, "I'll do it for you." Cheng Hao's mother will give her son a small suit each year during the Chinese New Year. "It's often she is doing it while I'm learning."
Under the influence of her mother, Cheng Yu has had a strong interest in sewing since childhood. Later, the boy joined the production team of the Olympic awards ceremony dress. “Others are designing first and then learning to sew. I'm just the opposite.†Under the influence of his mother, Cheng Hao was especially good at sewing.
In 2007, Cheng Hao just entered the team of famous costume designer Guo Pei, they received a difficult problem - to make "Dream Dream" series of dress.
It is said that this series of dresses has not been sewn out by the hands of many people, and everyone is frowning. Cheng Yu took the design drawings and saw a blue dress skirt. The skirt was like the shape of the Temple of Heaven and it was very open. He estimated that because the outline is too three-dimensional, the fabric is difficult to stand up. Cheng Yu tried everything he could to cut silk and cut it into layers. Like origami, it is both stiff and tight.
Cheng Yin, a 30-year-old, is paranoid and designs every piece of clothing as an artwork. On one occasion, in order to pursue the effect of art, he piled all the high-grade craftsmanship that he could use on the same piece of clothing, but he was questioned by ordinary viewers. “How is this kind of clothes worn?â€
He is helpless. In fact, he has always wanted to design a fashion product that can be accepted by the market. However, every time his creation is unconstrained, his creativity is extraordinary, and the market does not accept it. He is not willing to let himself compromise.
Cheng Yu has a dream: "How many years later I am gone, but my design is still." This means that his design will be advanced, and things ahead are always inevitably misunderstood.
Returnees: There are several methods for sewing zippers. Independent designer Wang Tian believes that business and art can be interdependent. “Clothes are designed to be worn by others.â€
The petite girl once studied in England for seven years and graduated from London Fashion Institute. Foreign clothing designs pay more attention to the design concept itself. “How to get inspired in the flowers and the development from the initial inspiration to the final design.†When they went to school in London, their homework was a hundred pages. Design Flow.
She will also be questioned, "I feel that everyone is always a bit biased towards the designers who come back to study abroad. I don't think you are outside for two years. It's nothing extraordinary." But these years are not so good. When Wang Tian’s internship, the daily job is ironing, and sometimes it is a hot day. What's even more bitter is cutting the cloth. One day, the thumb joints will grow blisters. She would also like Jiao Yunqing to run from eastern England to the middle for a piece of cloth. "Going out these years has made me experience a lot."
However, when she intended to return home to create her own brand, she stopped again. Because she didn't know how to beat her buttons.
“The Fashion Institute will not teach you this.†At the new internship company, she learned all the styles of buttons. Before she was allowed to cover the button on the shirt, she could only think of adding an extra layer of cloth outside. Later, she learned the nail buckle. “There are several sewing methods for the zipper.†Mastered these basic hard With technology, Wang Tian quickly made an analogy and started to design his own fashion.
Now, looking for a processing plant has become a top priority in her work. "Our clothes are produced in small quantities and the production process is demanding. Many manufacturers do not take orders." Wang Tian used to find a good factory in advance. Only by putting them in her hands can she relax.
There is a large gap in talents. Senior designers earn over 200,000 yuan per year and Wang Tian is willing to pursue visual impact, but they also have their own skills. They represent China's new generation of independent designers, rising like new stars. They also admire old tailors like Jiao Yunqing. “Even if a button and a seam are to be refined, I will probably not be able to change it.â€
However, Jiao Yunqing also knows that his craft will slowly lose his reputation. “Fewer and younger young people can persist and more and more colleagues will die.†To be consistent, that is: Let people love their clothes, let people wear their own clothes.
According to the clothing industry survey, China has become the world’s largest producer of clothing. At present, there are more than 60,000 garment companies in China. As the market competition intensifies, companies strongly recognize the importance of design and research and development. 80% of garment companies have to carry out industrial innovation and innovation. Innovation is the most important product innovation, resulting in clothing. Designers are extremely scarce and the talent gap is as high as 150,000.
The newly graduated costume design trainees have a salary of more than 3,000 yuan. After one to two years of work, the salary is between 6,000 yuan and 20,000 yuan. The annual salary of senior designers is generally between 200,000 and 500,000 yuan, and some even reach 1 million yuan.
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