Proenza Schouler: a pioneer who is one step ahead of others

New York, USA – In the 18th century, wealthy British families sent their sons to the European continent for a “big trip”, like the adult ceremony before the family established a career, hoping to broaden the horizons of young people. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have just completed a European “big trip”, they have spent two fashion seasons in Paris and are now back in New York.

But the press conference on Monday seems to prove that they celebrated with enthusiasm as if they were "shrinking" rather than "expanding." Hernandez seems to admit this: "In Paris, you can get all the craftsmanship and techniques of embroidery, feathers, etc., then we ask ourselves, 'If you can only use one fabric, why not use tannin fabrics?' ”

Therefore, the tone of the new season Proenza Schouler is the durability and functionality of tannin fabrics. In the past season, Hernandez and McCollough used fashion design to highlight the expensive and mysterious craftsmanship. But the craftsmanship used this season - pickling, tie dyeing, is unusual; a series of blazers, pullovers, denim jackets, trench coats, wrap denim skirts. In the last season, Proenza's press conference will only have provocative colors on the shoes, the knee-length boots are made of almost rubber-washed leather fabric, and some are tied at the ankles.

The designers also collaborated with artist Isa Genzken, who lives in Berlin this season, but Hernandez wants to make it clear that the contribution that Genzken brings to the collection is not the old-fashioned “joint name”. In July, she sent Hernandez and McCollough a collection of Proenza clothes, which looked like a sculptural sculpture. They said that this cooperation is like "improvised play." But it seems that these two people can not only do this about Genzken's "improvisation", after all, she is a favorite artist in the fashion industry.

In 2013, Isa Genzken's solo exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), with Peebe Philo's Celine, hosted an opening reception for her, and Raf Simons was once known as one of her favorite artists. In this season's series by Hernandez and McCollough, the spirit of Raf also spreads along with the inspiration of Genzken. The decorative flowers and the New York cityscape photo print may have been inspired by Genzken, but it also looks a lot like Raf. The same is true for oversized tie-dyed shirts (like the tribute to Simons and artist Sterling Ruby). The indigo blue line jeans are also reminiscent of the re-creation of the Belgian designer at Calvin Klein. The original rough texture of the whole series also gives people the same pioneering spirit.

After choosing to leave Paris, the vastness of Hernandez and McCollough confirms that their "USA Today" road has already been passed by - the other is a Belgian! It can only be said that the image they represent in the New York Fashion Pantheon is still not clear enough.

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