On March 19th, Kris Van Assche confirmed his departure from Dior Homme, ending his 11-year art director's career in the brand. Former Louis Vuitton Mens Art Director Kim Jones will replace him as the new men's art director. Previously, with the joint name of Louis Vuitton and Supreme, Kim Jones was considered one of the few designers who could control the cross-border of luxury brands and street brands.
This trend is seen by industry analysts as a foreshadowing of the internal restructuring of the traditional leading luxury brands. Starting from the artistic director, they are trying hard to catch up with the tide of street aesthetics. Kim Jones was appointed as the first major decision since the inauguration of the new President and CEO Pietro Beccari in six weeks. He previously worked for Fendi and Louis Vuitton.
Jones will formally take office on April 1 and will launch his first design series for Dior Homme in June. He joined the industry did not think, "Womens Daily" was reported last fall, said he was in contact with Versace, or may replace Christopher Bailey joined Burberry, the latter's position has been confirmed by Riccardo Tisci to fill.
Naomi Campbell, Kim Jones and Kate Moss at the Men's Wear Conference in Winter 2018
“I’m very happy that Kim Jones can join Dior. We have had cooperation experience in Louis Vuitton before. I appreciate his creative perspective. He can always combine his understanding of modern art with the re-creation of the genes in the fashion house. "Beccari told the Women's Daily that he is confident that Jones can create a new universe in Dior Homme."
Although Jones joins a design team with famous designers such as Maria Grazia Chiuri, Victoire de Castellane, Jones appears to be somewhat different from other people. Not to mention his close relationship with the popular street brands, just 345,000 Instagram fans and celebrity friends including Kate Moss and David Beckham are enough to bring the concept of shock to the old fashion house Dior, after all, Dior men's clothing All have stayed in the image of Hedi Slimane and the creation of a slender cut.
Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane
Dior Homme of Van Assche
Jones is a graduate of St. Martin’s College in the UK. From his fashion history, he can be said to be legendary. John Galliano worked as a photographer for his graduation project; he also has a menswear brand, known for sports street style, and after releasing eight series, Jones was taken in by Dunhill and served as creative director from 2008 to 2011. In 2006, he received the title of "British Men's Designer of the Year"; in addition, he has worked experience at Alexander McQueen, Mulberry, Hugo Boss and Umbro.
Louis Vuitton and Supreme Collaboration Series
Floriane de Saint Pierre, who runs a consulting firm with the same name in Paris, said that the trend of head luxury brands reflects that a new generation of men's designers is gradually forming, and their style must be more inclined to the street casual style. Talented designers and their brands are starting to emerge, such as Ami, Virgil Abloh, Martine Rose and Craig Green, whose designs will guide the arrival of traditional brand changes.†Saint Pierre said, “For these brands, to create a capable and young contemporary The ability of people to resonate with their culture is a decisive factor in their choice of designers."
Mary Gallagher, a European partner of headhunting company Martens & Heads, headquartered in New York City, agrees with this view: “Hiring a popular men's fashion designer with a reputation in the street is really significant.†She believes that a brand like Dior After women's and accessories have matured, men's wear is the next high ground for new customers, higher consumer loyalty and competitive advantage. Nowadays, sportswear, street style, custom and high street fashion collide with each other, which makes men's wear Become an area that cannot be missed, and Dior obviously wants to use Kim Jones's next bet.
LVMH has been overweighting the menswear business recently. A while ago, Hedi Slimane had just been recruited back to the group as Celine's creative director, and for the first time this 73-year-old brand extended the men's line, and Slimane's first series will debut at Paris Fashion Week this fall.
In addition, LVMH is also investing heavily in the menswear brand Berluti. Now Haider Ackermann and Loro Piana lead the design team and promote the next phase of growth by hiring new CEOs.
After Kim Jones left, whoever took over the Louis Vuitton menswear line became the focus of the industry. According to sources, the company had contact with Off-White's designer Abloh and Lanvin's Lucas Ossendrijver.
Unlike the practice of Kaiyun Group, LVMH has always insisted on recruiting different creative directors for the brand's men's and women's apparel line, in addition to Alessandro Michele's one-on-one reform of Gucci. Although this internal setting runs counter to the marketing principle of the entire fashion industry, the unified brand image, but at present, it does not affect the development of the LVMH Group's brand.
Right now, the brand's creative director not only shoulders the heavy responsibility of design, but also shoulders the responsibility of the brand's "image ambassador", both online and offline. In this regard, LVMH's strategy has its advantages. When two people represent the brand and ideally, both parties can establish contact with consumers and can intensively subdivision into different markets to better cater to their audience consumers.
On Monday, Vanessa Friedman, the fashion director of The New York Times, discussed the influence of Jones' participation in Dior's Grazia Chiuri. She said that since CEO Pietro Beccari made this decision within a short time after joining the company, It shows that he is not afraid of making big changes. Grazia Chiuri has so far failed to win the consensus of the industry.
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